Movado Zenith 1971 Gold Tank

“​Still Affordable Under-the-Cuff Dress Tank”

Why I Got It

After trying on my wife’s Cartier Tank Solo, I came to understand why so many collectors have rectangular watches in their collections.

It was by happenstance, that I stumbled upon this Movado Zenith. It checked all the right boxes, and I was looking to add a splash of gold to my collection.

How it Wears

Designed in 1917, by Louis Cartier, the Cartier Tank’s rectangular shape has become an iconic design; so much so, that many other watches are often regarded as homages or derivatives. To provide a comprehensive review, I also acquired a Large Tank Solo CRWSTA0028 along with my wife’s Small Rose Gold W5200024 for a real hands-on comparison.

Let’s start with the size. The Movado falls between the Cartier Tank small and large,

As a side note, if you’re new to rectangular dress watches, do not let the smaller sizing deter you. These watches are meant to be unobtrusive and subtly elegant on your wrist; much like dive watches tend to be bold with a strong presence. At 6.6mm thick, the watch fits under the cuff of even my most fitted dress shirts.

Matching the Cartier Tanks, the Movado Zenith Tank has all the correct trimmings for a traditional daytime formal dress watch; unadorned dial, no-seconds hands, designed to be worn under-the-cuff, gold and on a strap.

In terms of shape, the case lines are longer with the sides stepped. The Movado feels more rectangular than square. Instead of a cabochon (gemstone on the crown), the crown is signed with Zenith’s first-generation star logo.

Looking down, the fonts are thinner, and the numeral V is not reversed. At the same time, the curved corners of the frame and the dial track soften the formality also working well with smart casual attire.

In terms of “sparkle”, the Cartier Tank has a striking blue spinel cabochon. The Movado Tank, on the other hand, is more subtle with its faceted crystal.

In hand with the Cartier Tank, I’m surprised to say, that the Movado is a surprisingly distinct wearing experience. For a formal party, I find feel this Movado somehow outshines my Cartier Tank. I couldn’t understand why, until my wife pointed out that my Cartiers Tanks could pair with casual, whereas my Movado could not.

What to Look For

As a 14k gold electroplated watch, look for an example where the gold is not worn out (with the base metal visible). Original plating will be stamped between the 6:00 lugs, “PLAQUE G20” with the logo as pictured.

For the case shape, I believe you can reference mine. Gold-Plated watches, given how thin the layer is, tend to be unpolished.

The crystal should be faceted and minor scratches can be buffed out at home with polywatch and a microfibre.

The watch is triple signed with the Movado logo on the crown and engraved on the inside caseback, while the movement is marked Zenith.

Vintage hand-wound movements, often do not have a mechanism to prevent overwinding. As such, I’d confirm with the seller it’s not stuck, and if possible, ask for a video of the minutes changing.

The watch may not come with the original strap or buckle, but frankly, neither is anything special. You are better off replacing the strap.

Finally, as with all vintage watches, factor in service history, and if there is one, ask for a copy of the receipt.

Under the Loupe

Hover over the adjacent image to see the details.

I’ve not found much information online on the Movado Zenith Tanks, so please reach out if you have anything to add.

I was able to understand the reference number thanks to The Movado History by Fritz Von Osterhausen.

The 9-digit number on the caseback dates the watch between 1966 to 1971. This was the 3rd iteration of Movado’s reference set before their takeover by Zenith Radio Corp. Chicago.

It consists of 3 groups with my example numbering, 20 1670 355. The last 3 digits, 355 indicates the Zenith calibre 1740.

Unlike modern movements, at a height of 2.7mm, it’s really thin. Yet, no slouch in features with good accuracy, a healthy power reserve of 38 hours and Kif Ultraflex shock protection.

My favourite, aspect of this piece, is how it is signed. The dial has the simple Movado logo, while the crown, movement and inside caseback are signed with the older Zenith font and rarely seen, abstract star logo.

Closing Thoughts

At the end of the day, almost every numeral, rectangle tank stems from Cartier; just like a Submariner is a Rolex or a Royal Oak is an Audemars Piguet. However, I found this Movado Zenith Tank interesting enough to keep, even now having ownership of several Cartier Tank Solos. I find myself reaching for the Movado, more than the Rose Gold Cartier Tank, on days I’m dressed up and heading into the office.

Researching Movado, I was surprised that it was a watch brand with an impressive catalogue of repute, holding its own, alongside the likes of  Longines and even Omega. Unlike their peers, Movado in response to the 1970s economic and Quartz Crisis evolved today to focus on “fashion-watches” aimed at the millennial generation.

Many enthusiasts, myself included now, would love to see Movado go back to its roots.

However, with the high engagement of a new generation (despite Apple watches) and year-over-year growth of revenue, it is hard to argue with their results.

With this, there are overlooked vintage Movado watches, like this Tank, to be had at great prices from great brands.

In this example, adding a Zenith into the conversation becomes a very interesting piece of watch history.

FYI, the watercolour painting is of Birch Trees, done by my daughter, then 8 years old.

Years Later

I no longer have a Cartier Tank Rose gold and the Movado Zenith Tank is now my only gold dress watch. I often wear it at work. With a variety of quick-release straps, I switch up the strap colour to match what I’m wearing, with the Olive Green Chromexcel and Grigio Minerva Box being my favourite.

Another surprising aspect of the watch is that I don’t mind the hand-winding at all. Though I believe quartz dress watches with no seconds hand makes a lot of sense, I’ve found a great deal of enjoyment winding the Movado Tank. It’s not a bother at all, and I’ve found a great excuse to fidget with my watch and as a result, often an interesting conversation starter.

Where to Buy

Surprisingly, these watches are quite rare on the Internet. Searching on Google, I’ve only seen 2 (marked sold), gold examples, of which one was mine. I’ve also recently (Oct 2023) run into a Steel model currently on Etsy.

I stumbled upon mine while I was scrolling through eBay.

Movado wasn’t the only brand to pay homage to Cartier’s iconic design. Google image searches or general “Vintage Tank” searches may reveal other gems, though these, too, are surprisingly elusive.

Similar examples include this 1977 Omega Tank DD6359 and 1976 Longines 5038.

If you’re interested, focus on authentic Swiss brands, and with a bit of patience, you’ll find great value.